![]() ![]() In continuous exposure mode I set my intervalometer with a start delay and then program an exposure time of several hours⦠AND I put my camera in Manual, high-speed continuous exposure mode with a typical exposure of 30 seconds. when trying to capture meteors or planning for a time-lapse animation. I use continuous exposure mode when my exposures will be many and a maximum of 30 seconds â e.g. To avoid intervalometer misconfiguration I operate in either continuous exposure mode or bulb mode. Failing to turn off long exposure noise reduction.Or using the wrong drive mode on the camera. Failing to allow enough time between exposures when using an intervalometer.This problem can be compounded by two common misconfiguration blunders: Well there you go: almost 3 seconds of time where there is no exposure. Camera or intervalometer misconfigurationĬamera limitations: I described this issue in my article â How long does a 30 second exposure take?â All the Canon cameras I own â including the top of the line 5D Mark II require 32.8 seconds to complete a single 30 second exposure.To oversimplify a bit there are four causes for gaps in star trails created from successive exposures: In this installment we tackle these two issues In the previous article I discussed 4 of the 6 most common problems that occur with long exposures. Or you can create your exposure by stitching together foreground and sky shots. The altitude (degrees above the horizon) of the north celestial pole may constrain the choice of lenses to very wide-angle â and may force you to use portrait mode.Those at more northerly latitudes will be more constrained in their choices. To get a circular arc, I must include at least 10 degrees or so above and below the North Star. The farther north you are, the higher in the sky the center of rotation.It takes a longer exposure to form a pleasing arc.Not every situation lends itself to a view from the south.There are a few detriments to pointing north, however: Two major meteor showers (the Perseids and Quadrantids) and 3 periodic meteor showers (the Giacobinids or Draconids, the Ursids and the Andromedids) are well placed in the northern sky.I do not need to know what constellations will be visible in the direction I will shoot.If I know my latitude I know how high to point the camera and be guaranteed to get a circle in the view.The stars in the north move the slowest through the field of view which allows them to be brighter and reduces inter-exposure gaps in the trails.For shots toward the East, South or West it is important to know the moon phase and location during the hours of shooting to prevent problems from flare or washout. Since the moon cannot enter into a northern shot a photo can be made regardless of the moonâs phase and for as long as I choose.Camera damage can result from a long exposure pointed at the sun. The sun also never appears in the northern sky so it is safe to leave a camera running from before sundown to after sun up.And when the moon is highest in the sky it can cast strong face light. The moon sweeps east to west giving long shadows from the right or left of the subject.With just a smidgen of star hopping skill it is easy to find the north star which, weather permitting, is always visible in the night sky.The region immediately around the North Star, however has dimmer stars which may only be captured through long exposures. ![]()
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